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Japan, Kyoto, in the 18th century, at the height of the Edo period. The old tea merchant of the title is a former Buddhist monk who has returned to a secular life and finds in his new occupation an opportunity to ‘retreat from the world' while maintaining pleasant conversation with those who visit his shop, drawn by his wisdom and his learning. Via this ‘exemplary eccentric' - a sort of Far Eastern Socrates - and his study of the Edo civilisation, François Lachaud brilliantly evokes a particularly appealing part of Japanese culture, by presenting an enthusiastic reflection on the relations between eccentricity and asceticism which belies Western clichés.